Berwick-upon-Tweed
The town that changed hands 14 times ...
You would not believe it from walking around its peaceful streets or strolling along the battlements of its famous castle, but for the last 155 years the Northumbrian town of Berwick-upon-Tweed has been at war. And it's not with the 'obvious' enemy, either.
When the Crimean War was declared in 1853, the town was mentioned specifically in the Declaration of War, which Queen Victoria apparently signed "Victoria, Queen of Great Britain, Ireland, Berwick-upon-Tweed and all British Dominions".
But in the peace treaty, the Treaty of Paris, there was no mention of Berwick-upon-Tweed. So technically at least, the war isn't over for the town.
Whether this gem is true or not - and Wikepedia at least disputes it - there's still a Russian weapon on display to remind folks of this fact.
Despite this interesting tidbit that I had great fun digging out, Berwick means something else to me. Every time I hear Berwick mentioned I think of the day that F1 champion Ayrton Senna died.
We were on our first tour of Northumberland and drifted into town for a paper, spares for a broken exhaust bracket and a wander around. It was a May Bank Holiday Monday and most people were off work. The Market Square was empty, with only a few cars parked here and there. And for a town with such a martial past, there was an overwhelming sense of peace and some very friendly, helpful people.
That feeling of quiet and peacefulness is what I remember - along with Ayrton Senna - when somebody mentions Berwick, rather than that unusual declaration of war or the Treaty of Paris.
And anyway, Berwick has a lot more history than just one treaty.
Situated close to the border and of high strategic importance, it's been part of both Scotland and England over the years. In fact, it traded hands about 14 times, not always violently.
Once, in 1174, it was given to England as part of the ransom for captured Scottish king William I. Less than 20 years later King Richard the Lionheart - seriously in need of cash to finance his crusade - sold Berwick back to the Scots. And his brother John (Lackland), then razed it to the ground in 1216.
Life was certainly fraught with dangers in the Berwick of the Middle Ages as the strife between the two kingdoms continued until 1482, when the town was captured by the future King Richard III.
England's held on to it ever since, even though there's now a strong movement in the town for Berwick to rejoin Scotland. The local football team, the Berwick Rangers, and the local rugby squad, Berwick RFC, already play in their respective Scottish leagues.
So what was it about Berwick that made it so desirable to both English and Scottish kings?
Berwick's importance has always been linked the River Tweed and to its bridges. But there's so much to see in this ancient town, it's easy to understand why countries fought for the right to claim it.
A visit to the Old Bridge at Tweedmouth with its 15 graceful stone arches is a great way to start your visit. Having been started in 1611 after the collapse of an earlier structure, this bridge took 23 years to build.
The Royal Border Bridge, a railway viaduct with 28 arches, was opened in 1850 by Queen Victoria, having been designed and built under the supervision of Robert Stephenson. To this day, the viaduct carries East Coast Main Line trains across the River Tweed.
The most recent of Berwick's bridges is the Royal Tweed Bridge, a road bridge that was built in 1925.
And beyond the bridges? There's much to see in Berwick.
You can wander the Elizabethan ramparts - now cared for by English Heritage - and marvel at the scale of the engineering project that put them there. A staggering £128,648 were spent on fortifying Berwick-upon-Tweed, making this by far the most expensive undertaking of the Elizabethan period.
Berwick Barracks and the Berwick-upon-Tweed museum make an interesting day out, as does Berwick Parish Church, built during Oliver Cromwell's reign.
There are plenty of interesting hotels and guest houses for you to stay in along with wonderful fresh, local food. Walk the Lowry trail, or stand on the bridge and be inspired by the views. You'll find that Berwick is not just an adventure: it's a gateway to history.
Where to Stay
The Queen's Head Hotel
This relaxed small hotel, which dates back to the 1790s, is situated in the centre of the old town, convenient for both gently strolls or more energetic exploration. If you plan tot dine in the hotel's restaurant, make sure you book ahead - it's popular with the locals too!
Ravensdowne Guest House
If you like history with style you'll find this period townhouse dating back to 1760 a delightful place to stay. The Elizabethan Fortified Walls are only a minute's walk away along with easy access to the sea and the magnificent coastal views.
Murton Cottage, Steading
If you wanted a little more time to explore, then why not choose to stay in a holiday cottage like this this carefully restored farmhouse about 3 miles from Berwick-upon-Tweed.
The countryside is breathtaking, there are vast, empty beaches close by and - if you look the other way - you can explore the Cheviot Hills on foot, horseback, bike or by car.
Lindisfarne, Bamburgh, Dunstanburgh and Seahouses are all in easy exploration distance... as is the famous hospitality of Scotland.
Other pages you might find helpful when planning a break in Berwick-upon-Tweed:
- Where to Stay: Holiday cottages in Northumberland
- Alnwick Castle
- Warkworth Castle
- Dunstanburgh Castle
- The Holy Island of Lindisfarne
For things to do in Northumberland check out:
And if you'd like to know what Northumberland looks like before getting there, then this page of Images of Northumberland might be the right page for you.
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